How to Wheelie a Motorcycle (The Complete Guide)

To wheelie a motorcycle, ride in first or second gear at about 15-25 km/h (10-15 mph), cover the rear brake with your right foot, then lift the front with either a firm throttle roll-on timed with the fork rebound (power wheelie) or a quick clutch release at mid-range RPM (clutch wheelie), and tap the rear brake to bring it back down. Before your first lift, spend about $70 on a CE Level 2 back protector like the Alpinestars Nucleon KR-2i, because a loop-out lands you on your back.

All right guys, so here's the thing. Wheelies are the reason half of us got into bikes in the first place, let's be honest. You saw some guy ride past on one wheel when you were a kid and your brain went "I need that" and it never left. Same here bro. On the channel I literally called one of my bikes "the future stunt bike" and I meant it, because I love bikes, I freaking love bikes, and one wheel is the most fun two wheels can have.

But let me tell you something real quick before we get into it. A wheelie is not about being brave and it's not about having a big bike. It's about understanding the physics, trusting the rear brake and putting in the reps. That's it. The guys who look smooth on one wheel are not braver than you. They just did it a thousand more times.

If you're still figuring out what to stunt on, check my best motorcycles for stunting guide first. Otherwise, keep reading.

What Actually Happens When You Wheelie?

Okay guys, nerd moment. I'm not a mechanical type of guy, I'll be the first to admit it, but this part matters so stick with me.

A wheelie is a balance act around one pivot point, the rear axle. The front comes up when the rearward torque at the rear wheel beats the weight holding the front down. Three things are fighting the whole time:

1. Engine torque rotates the bike backward around the rear axle. That lifts the front.
2. Gravity pulls the bike's center of mass down. That drops the front once you stop feeding power.
3. Your body weight moves the balance point forward or back depending on where you sit and lean.

The balance point is the angle where those forces cancel out and the bike basically floats with almost no throttle. On a lot of sportbikes it's somewhere around 45-60 degrees from horizontal, and on short bikes like a Grom it sits a bit higher because of the short wheelbase. Every bike is different though, so think of those numbers as a ballpark, not gospel.

And here's the part that changes everything bro: the rear brake is your safety net. Tap it and the bike rotates forward and the front comes down. Doesn't matter how high you are. That's why rear brake control matters more than throttle control. I'm gonna keep repeating this whole post, because it's the thing that keeps you off your back.

Should You Learn a Power Wheelie or a Clutch Wheelie First?

There are two ways to get the front up. Both work, both have trade-offs, and eventually you want both. Start with whichever one scares you less. Real talk.

How Do You Do a Power Wheelie?

A power wheelie is pure throttle. No clutch.

You roll on hard enough that the engine torque beats the weight on the front wheel and up she goes. Here's the step-by-step:

1. Start in first gear at about 15-25 km/h (10-15 mph). Some bikes are too jerky in first, so try second.
2. Close the throttle for a split second to compress the front suspension. That loads the forks.
3. As the forks rebound and the front rises, roll the throttle on smoothly but firmly.
4. Timing is everything. You're stacking the fork's upward energy on top of the engine torque.
5. Keep your right foot hovering over the rear brake. The second it feels too high, tap it.

Why it's good: fewer controls to think about, less clutch wear, feels natural for a lot of beginners, and it's easy to modulate once the timing clicks.

What sucks: you need enough grunt to lift on throttle alone, the lift can come up kind of suddenly, and it only works in a certain RPM window on each bike.

Best on: bikes with strong low-end torque. Supermotos, singles, V-twin bikes, or anything with real pull in first and second gear.

How Do You Do a Clutch Wheelie?

A clutch wheelie (a "clutch-up") builds RPM with the clutch slipping and then sends that energy to the rear wheel all at once. This works on literally any bike with enough power to move, which is why stunt riders use it so much.

1. Start in first gear at about 25-30 km/h (15-20 mph). Second gear works too and is smoother on a lot of sportbikes.
2. Pull the clutch in about halfway, just enough to slip it into the friction zone, not fully disengaged.
3. While it's slipping, bring the RPM up into the mid-range. You'll learn the sweet spot for your bike.
4. Release the clutch smoothly but quickly. Not a full dump. Think quick and controlled.
5. The torque hit lifts the front. Foot on the rear brake, right away.
6. Feather the throttle to hold height. Close it or tap the rear brake to come down.

Why it's good: works on any bike, you get way more control over how hard the front comes up, and once you dial in RPM and release speed it gets super consistent.

What sucks: it eats clutch plates (budget for them like tires), there are more controls to juggle at once, and a high-RPM dump can send you straight past the balance point. That's how loops happen bro.

Best on: everything. This is the universal one.

Which Wheelie Technique Is Right for You?

Why Is Body Position Where Most People Get It Wrong?

Guys, if you only read one section, read this one. You can have perfect throttle and a flawless clutch and you'll still struggle if your body is in the wrong spot. Most wheelie problems are body position problems pretending to be technique problems.

What Mistake Does Almost Everyone Make?

New riders lean back. It feels logical, right? You want the front up, so you throw your weight back. Nope. Leaning way back does two terrible things:

1. It puts your weight behind the rear axle. Once the front passes the balance point, your body is now helping the bike loop instead of fighting it. You just took away your own save.
2. It stretches your arms away from the controls. Small throttle and brake inputs get clumsy and late, and on one wheel you need precision, not flailing.

What Is the Correct Wheelie Body Position?

• Sit in the middle of the seat, not scooted all the way back.
• Arms slightly bent, elbows loose, close enough that small inputs are easy.
• Squeeze the tank with your knees. Non-negotiable. Your legs anchor you so every bump and gust doesn't throw your upper body around.
• Back upright or only slightly back. Not hunched, not laid out like a recliner. Think sitting on a chair.
• Head up, eyes forward. Look where you're going, not at the front wheel. Your body follows your eyes.
• Balls of your feet on the pegs, right foot ready on the rear brake the whole time.

How Do You Control the Angle With Your Body?

Once the front is up and you're getting close to the balance point, small weight shifts steer the angle:

• Lean slightly forward (like an inch of torso) and the front comes down.
• Sit up a bit taller and the front comes up.
• Move your head forward for the fastest emergency drop without touching the brake.

Think of balancing a broom on your hand. You don't make big dramatic moves, you make a million tiny corrections. The riders who look relaxed on one wheel aren't doing less work than you, bro. They're doing dozens of micro-corrections a second that you can't even see.

Why Is the Rear Brake Your Best Friend on a Wheelie?

This gets its own section because it's the single most important safety thing in wheelie riding. I said I'd keep repeating it. Here we go again.

The rear brake does three jobs:

1. Stops loops. If the bike goes too far back, a tap applies forward rotation and the front comes down. It's faster and more predictable than just closing the throttle.
2. Holds your height at the balance point. Up there you hold the angle with throttle and rear brake together. More throttle to go up, a touch of brake to stay or come down. That's how stunt riders hold one angle for hundreds of feet.
3. Kills the fear. Fear of looping is the number one reason riders plateau. Knowing you can always bring it down with a tap fixes that.

How Do You Practice Rear Brake Control?

Before you ever try to lift, do this drill for about 10 minutes:

1. Ride at around 25 km/h (15 mph) in second gear.
2. Cover the rear brake with your foot, just hovering.
3. Apply the rear brake gently while holding throttle and feel how the bike reacts.
4. Practice quick taps: on for a split second, then off.
5. Repeat until your foot finds the pedal without looking and without thinking.

The goal is that tapping the rear brake becomes as automatic as pulling the clutch at a stop sign. Muscle memory first, front wheel second.

Oh, and by the way guys, if your bike has a slipper clutch, that doesn't change any of this. It helps on hard downshifts, not on one wheel. But anyways, back to the plan.

What Does a Realistic Week-by-Week Wheelie Plan Look Like?

Here's a realistic progression for someone practicing 2-3 times a week for 20-30 minutes a session. Some riders go faster, some slower. Both are fine. And if you're in Canada like me, remember the season is like six months if we're lucky, so start early in spring and don't panic if winter cuts you off mid-plan. It is what it is.

Weeks 1-2: Front Wheel Hops

Goal: get comfortable with the front leaving the ground for 1-2 seconds.

• First gear, about 15-25 km/h (10-15 mph)
• Use whichever technique you picked
• Barely lift the front. A few inches is fine. A foot or two is plenty
• Every single rep ends with a rear brake tap, even if the front was only six inches up
• 10-20 small hops per session. Quality over quantity
• Your body will be tense and your inputs jerky. Totally normal

Success looks like: by the end of week 2 you lift the front a foot or two consistently and bring it down with the rear brake without panicking.

Weeks 3-4: Sustained Small Wheelies

Goal: hold the front up for 3-5 seconds at a low angle.

• Move to second gear. Smoother, more room to work with
• Hold a low angle, maybe 20-30 degrees. Not chasing balance point yet
• Learn throttle modulation: how much holds height vs raises it vs drops it
• Start paying attention to body position: knees on the tank, loose arms, eyes up
• Front drops too fast? A bit more throttle. Comes up too fast? Less
• 15-25 reps per session

Success looks like: you can hold a low wheelie for 15-30 metres (50-100 feet) in second gear and your body is starting to relax.

Weeks 5-8: Finding the Balance Point

Goal: learn what the balance point feels like and ride near it.

This is the hard part. At the balance point the bike wants to stay up on its own with very little throttle. It feels floaty, like the front is weightless.

• Stay in second gear and creep the front a little higher each session
• You'll know you're close because the steering goes light and the bike feels like it's hovering
• This is where you HAVE to trust the rear brake. You will go past the balance point at some point. Tap the brake and the front comes down
• Start making small throttle-brake corrections: a little throttle to go up, a brake tap to come down
• Don't try to hold it for distance yet. Touch it, feel it, brake down, repeat

Success looks like: you get to the balance point consistently and ride within 5-10 degrees of it for short stretches, and you know exactly what "too far" feels like and how to save it with the brake.

Month 3 and Beyond: Second Gear Distance

Goal: consistent balance point wheelies for real distance.

• Second gear at about 40-55 km/h (25-35 mph) is the sweet spot on a lot of bikes
• Focus on smooth. Constant tiny corrections, not big dramatic saves
• Build the throttle-brake rhythm: a touch of throttle to hold height, micro brake taps to stay at angle
• Add small bar inputs to keep the bike tracking straight
• Once you can ride a straight balance point wheelie for 60+ metres (200+ feet), you have it. Everything after that is style

Success looks like: a full parking lot length at the balance point, smaller corrections, and it starts feeling natural instead of terrifying.

When that clicks, my stunt progression guide covers what comes next, like the stoppie and circle work.

What Are the Most Common Wheelie Mistakes (and How Do You Fix Them)?

1. Why Does the Front Barely Lift?

You give it throttle or pop the clutch and the front comes up a few inches and drops straight back down.

• Not enough RPM before the clutch release. You need to be in the meat of the powerband, not near idle.
• Clutch release too slow. You're feathering it out gently. Not a dump, but decisively quick.
• Wrong gear. Third or fourth doesn't have the multiplication. Drop to first or second (more on that in gear ratio terms if you're curious).
• Body too far forward. Hunched over the tank, you're fighting the lift.

2. What Do You Do If You Start Looping Out?

The front goes past the balance point and the bike starts falling backward. This is the scariest thing that can happen on a wheelie, but it's survivable if you react right.

Immediate response: rear brake. Firmly. The front will come down. If you're truly past the point of no return, step off the back and let the bike go. A dropped bike is fixable. You are not as fixable, bro.

• No rear brake habit. You're not covering the brake, so when it goes high you panic and grab throttle instead. Go back to weeks 1-2 and drill it.
• Too much throttle too fast. A handful instead of a roll-on. Smooth and progressive.
• Weight too far back. Scoot forward and keep your torso centered.
• RPM too high on the clutch-up. Dump at redline and the bike launches past the balance point before you can react. Use mid-range.

3. Why Does the Bike Wobble on One Wheel?

The bike shakes side to side or feels unstable once the front is up.

• Knees not gripping the tank. This is the cause most of the time. Squeeze and the wobble usually calms down.
• Death grip on the bars. It sends every body movement into the steering. Loosen up and let the bars float.
• Steering input. You're turning the bars without meaning to. At the balance point the bars should be nearly centered.
• Too slow. The bike is more stable with a bit more speed. If you're wobbling at 15 km/h, try 30.

4. How Do You Get Past the Fear?

You can do small lifts all day but freeze when you try to go higher. Your brain says "that's high enough" even though you know you're not near the balance point.

Guys, this is normal and it's healthy. Your survival instinct is doing its job. The fix isn't "just send it." The fix is going up slowly:

• Add about an inch of height per session. One inch, not three feet.
• Drill rear brake saves over and over. Every save is proof to your brain that you can handle it.
• Watch your own footage. Seeing yourself higher than you thought you were is a huge confidence boost.
• Ride with someone better than you. Confidence is contagious.

5. Why Is the Clutch Slipping?

You release the clutch and the bike just revs without lifting.

• Worn clutch plates. Weeks of clutch-ups glaze and wear the plates. Replace them. They're a consumable.
• Cable adjustment. Make sure the clutch fully engages at the lever. Set the free play.
• Wrong oil. Wet clutches need motorcycle oil without friction modifiers. The wrong oil can make a healthy clutch slip.
• Pulling the lever too far. You don't need full disengagement. Slip it in the friction zone and release from there.

What Is the Best Motorcycle to Learn Wheelies On?

The perfect learner wheelie bike is light, has predictable power, cheap parts and enough aftermarket support for crash protection. Prices below are rough used prices in USD and they swing a lot by region.

The Grom is basically the cheat code. I broke down a full build in my Grom stunt build guide, and the deeper bike comparison lives in best motorcycles for stunting.

Real talk though guys, buy used, buy cheap, and buy something you're not emotionally attached to. You're going to drop it. You're going to crack fairings and bend levers. That's tuition. A scratched $2,500 F4i teaches you exactly the same thing as a spotless $6,000 one, it just hurts way less when it hits the ground. My own stripped black and red Honda with the chrome slip-on sitting in my driveway? That's my baby. I would cry. Tina would laugh, then I would cry more. Point is, don't learn on the bike you love. Shopping used? The used stunt bikes on eBay are where the cheap F4is live, and my used motorcycle buying guide tells you what to check before you hand over cash.

How Do You Protect Your Bike While Learning?

You're going to drop your bike while learning wheelies. That's not being negative, that's just reality. The difference between a $50 lesson and a $500 lesson is crash protection.

Crash cage. Bolts to the frame and engine mounts and makes a steel skeleton that takes the hit instead of your frame and fairings. The single most important stunt mod. Figure ~$150-400.

Subcage. Protects the subframe and tail. When you loop, the tail hits first. Also gives you a grab handle. Around ~$200-350.

Frame sliders. Pucks that bolt to the frame and take tip-overs and slides. Way cheaper (~$30-80) but less protection than a cage. Good for drops, not great for loops.

12 o'clock bar. Sticks out the back of the subcage so it touches the ground before anything else if you go past vertical. Essential once you start chasing the balance point. Roughly ~$80-200.

Full cost breakdown for all of it is in how much it costs to build a stunt bike. And if you've already dumped it once, here's how to pick up a dropped motorcycle without wrecking your back.

What Gear Do You Actually Need to Practice Wheelies?

Bare minimum every session: a DOT-certified helmet, gloves, a jacket with armor, riding pants and boots. Following ATGATT is not optional when you're intentionally pointing the bike at the sky, bro. No squidding on wheelie day. Here's the extra stuff that matters most for wheelie practice.

Alpinestars Nucleon KR-2i Back Protector

Price: ~$70 | Rating: CE Level 2 | Size: Large (other sizes on the listing) | Fits: Back pocket of most riding jackets

Guys, I'm not gonna lie, this is the one I'd buy before anything else on this list. It's the cheapest way to make a loop-out a bruise instead of a hospital visit. Seventy bucks for your spine? That's not even a question. If you want to go further, a motorcycle airbag vest is the big upgrade.

EBC Clutch Kit for the Honda CBR600F4i

Price: ~$100 | Fits: Honda CBR600F4i 2001-2007 | Springs: sold separately by EBC | Install: clutch cover off, plates out, plates in

Bro, clutch plates are the wheelie tax. Every clutch-up is a little bit of plate going away. If you're on an F4i like half the stunt world, this is the exact kit. Soak new friction plates in fresh oil before they go in, and use proper motorcycle oil, not car oil.

Shogun Frame Sliders for the Honda CBR600F4i

Price: ~$68 | Fits: Honda CBR600F4i 2001-2006 | Part number: 750-3209 | Colour: Black

Real talk, sliders are not a cage. They save you on drops and small slides, not on a full loop. But for under 70 bucks, they're the first thing that should go on a learner wheelie bike. Pair them with crash bars or a cage once you get serious.

Insta360 X4 360 Camera

Price: ~$500 | Video: 8K 360 | Waterproof: Yes | Discount code: 6Foot4

Full disclosure guys, I partner with Insta360, so if you grab one through my link use code 6Foot4. You save a little, I get a little, and that's literally how this site stays alive. My full Insta360 for motorcycles guide covers mounts and settings.

How Do the Wheelie Gear Picks Compare?

How Should You Film Your Wheelies?

Filming does two jobs: diagnosing your technique and, let's be honest, content for the tube.

For technique, a tripod behind your practice area is hard to beat. You see body position, bike angle and throttle timing way better than from a riding buddy's bike.

For ride-along footage, a 360 camera is the move. Mount it once, it catches every angle, and you choose the shot in post. No aiming, no missing the moment.

And if you've got a buddy spotting, a Bluetooth headset lets them call out your angle in real time, which is legit useful when you can't judge your own height. A Cardo Spirit is the cheap way into a real Cardo, and I partner with Cardo too, so code 6FOOT4 saves you a bit. More options in my Bluetooth headset guide.

What Should Be on Your Pre-Practice Wheelie Checklist?

Run this every session. Every single one.

• Rear brake tested. Squeeze it at walking pace, make sure it bites smoothly
• Clutch adjusted. Proper free play, smooth engagement
• Tire pressure checked. Rear at the right PSI. Low pressure means less grip
• Crash protection on. Cage, sliders, or at minimum frame guards
• Gear on. DOT helmet, gloves, armored jacket and pants, boots, back protector
• Practice area clear. Private property, no cars, no people, no potholes, flat smooth surface
• Bike warmed up. Oil circulating, engine at operating temp, smooth idle
• Phone in your pocket, not on the bars. Your phone doesn't need to learn wheelies with you

If you've never done a formal course, the Motorcycle Safety Foundation basic course is worth it before you start stunting, because clean clutch and brake control is the whole foundation here.

Is It Legal to Wheelie on the Road?

No. Not in the US and not here in Canada. Practice on private property with the owner's permission. Period.

In the US, wheelies on public roads usually get charged as reckless or careless driving, and some states go hard. In Virginia, for example, reckless driving under Virginia Code 46.2-852 is a Class 1 misdemeanor that can bring a licence suspension and even jail time. In Ontario, O. Reg. 455/07 under the Highway Traffic Act counts riding a motorcycle with only one wheel on the ground as stunt driving, and that means a roadside licence suspension and your bike impounded on the spot, plus big fines if you're convicted. Bro, that's your whole season gone in one wheelie. Full breakdown in my is it illegal to wheelie guide.

Final Thoughts

Learning to wheelie is frustrating, scary, kind of expensive, and honestly one of the most rewarding things you'll ever do on a bike. The guys who get there aren't the most talented, they're the most consistent. Show up, put in the reps, trust the rear brake, and the balance point will find you. Worried about what all this does to your bike? I covered that in are wheelies bad for your motorcycle.

All right guys, that's it for this one. Gear up, find a big empty lot (with permission), and go get that front wheel up. Let's go.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to learn to wheelie a motorcycle?

Most riders can lift the front wheel consistently within one to two weeks of practice, reach the balance point in roughly four to eight weeks, and ride smooth, controlled balance point wheelies for distance after two to four months. That timeline assumes two or three practice sessions a week of about twenty to thirty minutes each, on a safe private lot with the right gear. Some riders move faster and some take longer, and both are normal. The biggest variable is not talent. It is how consistently you practice and whether you drill rear brake control from the very first day, because confidence on the rear brake is what lets you go higher without freezing up. Riders who skip the brake drills usually plateau at low wheelies and stay stuck there for months. Short breaks hurt too, so if your season ends for winter, expect to spend the first few sessions in spring rebuilding your feel before you push higher again.

What is the easiest motorcycle to wheelie?

The Honda Grom is the easiest motorcycle to learn wheelies on. It weighs around 227 pounds, it is slow enough that mistakes are lower consequence, parts are cheap, and the aftermarket for crash protection is huge. The Kawasaki Z125 is a very similar option, so buy whichever is cheaper near you. For a full-size bike, a supermoto like the Suzuki DR-Z400SM is one of the easiest because it is light, tall and has strong low-end torque, which makes power wheelies feel natural. On the sportbike side, the Honda CBR600 F4i is the classic learner stunt bike, with a tough engine, cheap used prices and a massive stunt community that knows every trick for it. Whatever you pick, buy it used and cheap, because you will drop it while learning. Add frame sliders or a cage before your first practice session and plan on replacing levers, clutch plates and rear tires as normal running costs.

Are wheelies bad for your motorcycle?

Wheelies add wear, but they do not wreck a well-maintained bike. The parts that take the most stress are the clutch if you do clutch-ups, the rear tire, the chain and rear sprocket, and the rear suspension. The front end also takes a hit if you slam the front wheel down instead of setting it down smoothly, which can stress fork seals, wheel bearings and the steering head over time. With good maintenance, which means replacing clutch plates when they start to slip, keeping the chain adjusted and lubed, watching rear tire wear and checking your fork seals, a bike can handle thousands of wheelies without major problems. The engine itself is not the weak point. The real cost is consumables like clutch plates, chains and tires. The biggest risk is crash damage from drops and loops, which is why sliders, a cage and a 12 o'clock bar matter so much on a learner bike. Soft landings are free, so practice bringing it down gently.

Should I learn power wheelies or clutch wheelies first?

Learn whichever one feels less intimidating to you. Power wheelies use only the throttle and the rear brake, so there are fewer controls to coordinate, but they need a bike with enough low-end torque to lift on throttle alone, like a supermoto, a single or a V-twin. Clutch wheelies work on almost any bike, including small bikes and peaky 600s, and they give you more control over how hard the front comes up, but you are managing the clutch, the throttle and the rear brake at the same time. Many stunt riders lean on clutch-ups because they are so versatile, but a power wheelie is a perfectly valid place to start. Whatever you choose, drill the rear brake first and start with tiny lifts in first gear before you chase any height. Once one technique feels comfortable and your brake taps are automatic, learn the other, because each one teaches you something about throttle timing and balance that helps the other technique.

Can any motorcycle wheelie?

Almost any motorcycle with enough power to accelerate can wheelie in the right conditions, but some are far better for learning than others. Practically, you want at least a 125cc engine, because very small engines need aggressive high-RPM clutch dumps that make the lift harder to control, not easier. A sensible range for learning is roughly 125cc to 650cc on a light bike with predictable power. Heavy cruisers and touring bikes can lift, but they are long, heavy and expensive to drop, so they are poor learner bikes. Big liter sportbikes lift easily but deliver power so quickly that a small mistake can become a loop, which makes them a bad first wheelie bike too. Many modern bikes also have wheelie control or traction control that limits lift, so check whether yours can be adjusted or switched off before you start. The best learner bikes stay light, cheap and forgiving, like a Grom, a Z125, a supermoto or an older 600.

Is it illegal to wheelie on the road?

Yes. Wheelies on public roads are illegal across the United States and Canada. In the US they are usually charged as reckless or careless driving, with penalties ranging from tickets and licence points to misdemeanor charges. Virginia is one of the harshest states, where reckless driving is a Class 1 misdemeanor that can bring a licence suspension and jail time. In Ontario, riding a motorcycle with only one wheel on the ground is defined as stunt driving under the Highway Traffic Act, which brings a roadside licence suspension, vehicle impoundment and large fines if convicted. Other provinces have similar stunt and dangerous driving rules. Beyond the legal risk, public roads have traffic, gravel, potholes and pedestrians, and a wheelie mistake there can hurt someone else, which is the part that matters most. Practice only on private property with the owner's permission, or look for stunt events and closed courses where riding on one wheel is allowed.

What safety gear do you need to practice wheelies?

At minimum you need a DOT-certified full-face helmet, armored riding gloves, a riding jacket with shoulder and elbow armor, riding pants with knee armor and over-the-ankle boots. On top of that, a CE Level 2 back protector is the most important extra for wheelie practice, because a loop-out usually means landing on your back. An insert like the Alpinestars Nucleon KR-2i costs around $70 and slides into the back pocket of most riding jackets. Some riders step up to an airbag vest for even more protection. For the bike, frame sliders or a full crash cage protect the frame and fairings, and a 12 o'clock bar saves the tail once you start chasing the balance point. Never practice in shorts, sneakers or a hoodie, even for a quick session. The whole point of wheelie practice is that mistakes are expected, so dress for the mistake, not for the good rep. Check that your gear still fits properly and replace any helmet that has taken a hit.